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Outer
Island Short story Dan Webber |
Excerpt: I like to keep my boards in good repair. Dings are inevitable at these rocky breaks. A cracked fin can easily snap off. A ding on the rail might be where the board snaps in half, or else the exposed fibreglass will put a cut in your leg-rope, and if that breaks, the board will end up getting bounced around on the rocks until you can find your own way in to retrieve it. But then, hectic situations are half the fun. Then there's getting ready to head out. Putting on a wetsuit and waxing up has a kind of ritual feel about it - a few moments spent mentally preparing for engagement. When it's big, it feels like you're preparing for battle, your wetsuit like a suit of armour, your board a shield. I normally wear booties and a helmet at reef breaks - added protection in battle. But, I'll have to do without, this morning. I hadn't needed them at the beach yesterday. I feel kind of naked, without them." |